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This is a 6061 billet aluminum block designed to delete and replace the factory ABS unit on 99-06 GMT800 trucks. It will also work for 01-10 2500/3500 trucks. This is designed to be a simple solution with as few leak points as possible (no extra fittings) using the factory brake lines. There are 3x 1/8″ NPT plugs included that will need to be installed with sealant (recommend using Loctite 565 or Permatex 54540). You could also easily use any of these ports for a brake pressure sensor or brake light activation switch. This is not the same as pulling the fuse, this physically deletes the module from the system.

Fitment

The easiest way to tell if this will fit your vehicle is to look at the picture and compare it to yours. GM had many different configurations in all vehicles, most of which are not compatible. If your vehicle has 3 lines on the top and 2 on the bottom then this will likely work, this is primarily 99-06 trucks. If your vehicle has a row of 4 lines (JL4 braking option) then this will not work.

Purpose and Intended Audience

Deleting the ABS is sometimes required with aftermarket braking systems (aftermarket calipers, specifically). It is very common for the internal valves of the ABS module to have issues in this case. I designed this part because I had an issue with my brakes dragging and not releasing pressure for 5-10mins after braking quickly, plus my ABS unit had just been unplugged for years anyway because of a bad controller. This is not the same as simply unplugging the unit or pulling the fuse, this part physically removes the ABS module from the vehicle to fix any issues caused by the internal valving. If you simply want to disable the ABS from activating and everything else otherwise works fine just pull the fuse in the fuse box.

This part is designed for the purpose-built racing or offroad truck that has a need to remove the ABS module from the system. It is not intended for an otherwise stock vehicle that will be road driven. This is a performance modification, not a fix for a malfunctioning part. If having a dash light illuminated bothers or scares you, this is not for you. If your ABS does not work currently this will not fix it. This is designed to fix a problem with aftermarket calipers hanging on racing or offroad vehicles.

Mounting Bracket

The powder coated mounting bracket is optional although highly recommended. It is installs in one of the holes the factory ABS unit occupied so no drilling or frame modification is required. Frame mounting bolt is an M10 and the bolts from the bracket to the block are 1/4″. Torque spec is nice and snug.

ABS/Brake Light

You will likely have an ABS and/or brake light illuminate on the stock cluster with the installation of this. This is to be expected since you are disabling and removing the ABS module from the vehicle. The simplest way to get rid of the light is to disable the light at the cluster via removing the bulb (99-02) or de-soldering or covering the light in the cluster itself (03-06). Aftermarket displays or screens obviously will not have this issue. This part is intended for people who do not care about this sort of thing. This is a performance modification and not intended for otherwise stock vehicles.

Disclaimer

This product deletes the ABS unit from your vehicle so braking behavior will be affected. The brake system will need to be properly bled and and fluid level verified after installation. If you are not comfortable modifying your brake system then seek help from a professional or do not use this product. This is intended for off-road or racing only, not for general highway or street use. This will not “fix” any ABS issue you have, it will completely remove the ABS system. By installing this product you acknowledge that you are deleting a factory safety feature from your vehicle and take responsibility for any consequences of that decision.

Installation

Modification of the braking system should only be performed by someone with the proper experience, expert help, or a professional.

1. Remove the old ABS module via the 3 bolts on the frame and disconnecting the electrical plugs and brake lines. A stubby 9/16″ wrench is very helpful for the lines.
2. Make sure the threads on the brake lines are clean and the flare is in good shape.
3. Blow out the block with air to make sure there is no debris inside. Do not use water. Install the 3 NPT plugs on the delete block, it is much easier to do before you install the lines on the block. You must use a brake fluid compatible sealant like Permatex 54540 or Loctite 565, not normal teflon tape or paste. Normal teflon tape or paste will be eventually broken down by the brake fluid. Be sure not to get sealant on the end of the plug and keep the sealant to the threads only. Do not overtighten.
4. Reconnect the lines to the block in the same position as they were removed from the original module; the 2 on the bottom are from the MC, top right goes to the rear, and the top center and top left go to the front wheels. Make sure the threads go in straight and are not cross threaded, and also make sure the flare sits square in the block and is not crooked. Do not overtighten the nuts. The flats on the nut or the block itself can be striped if excessive force is applied. Do not apply any sealant to the line threads; the flare on the tubing is what makes the seal, these are meant to install dry.
5. Install the mounting bracket to the block (loosely so it can slide if needed) then to the frame (loosely again). If you need to slightly bend the bracket slightly to fit how your lines sit that is acceptable. Tighten all bolts so they are snug. They are nylon locking nuts so do not need to be overly tight.
6. Bleed the brake system starting from the furthest caliper and working towards the closest. Check the block for any leaks, and if any are detected fix it immediately. Do not attempt to drive if there are any leaks or you cannot get a proper bleed (soft pedal, foaming, leaks, etc).
7. On the first test drive go very slowly and use caution in a controlled environment to make sure there are no issues.