Do you make a solid transmission mount?

I get asked this question a lot, and the answer is no. The transmission mount should never be stiffer than the engine mounts. I recommend using a stock transmission mount, as long as it’s in good shape, when paired with my motor mounts. A stiff transmission mount runs the high risk of cracking the transmission case. The motor mounts do (or should do) all of the work in resisting the twisting motion of the engine while the transmission mount is simply to vertically support the end of the transmission. If the transmission mount does not have any give then all of the twisting from the engine will be transferred to the frame via the transmission case which it was not designed to do. The factory transmission mount works just fine.

What Coilover Brackets Do I Need?

This is the most common question I get about how to pick which bracket kit you need for your Torsion Bar truck. It is pretty easy to figure out based on what you are wanting between lowered, stock height, or lifted, so lets walk through it.


I rewrote this article in August of 2021 to be simpler and more clear.


Will your brackets work on a 2500 or 2500HD?

The short answer is no. My brackets are intended for the 1500 trucks. My upper brackets can be used on the 2500s, however they will need to be welded instead of bolted due to the frame differences between the 1500 and 2500 frames. The Lower brackets are not compatible. Additionally I do not recommend this swap on the 2500s, especially if you have a diesel or tow, because of the weight and lack of readily available suitable aftermarket springs that will fit without a lot of modification. If you have one of these trucks BDS makes a coilover kit, or a solid axle swap (SAS) may be a better option for you.


If you are wanting to stay at stock height or go lower (~0-3″ drop)

You will need the full normal kit with the stud top bushings. If you purchase the full kit option that includes the coilovers they will include these brackets. A 2-3″ drop is my most common kit and works very well with stock spindle and control arms. This is the ideal height for racing and general performance as it maintains good CV angles and front end geometry.


If you want a lot of drop (~4-5″ drop)

You will need the kit as discussed above as well as a drop spindle. The typical 2-3″ drop coilover kit with a 2″ drop spindle will make it a 4-5″ drop. You will probably need the belltech offset UCA bushings to correct the alignment specs so it can be aligned (I don’t sell this but they are easy to find online). This is with the stock control arms.


If you want more than 5″+ of drop

You will need to a custom lower control arm to move the mounting points further apart in addition to the coilovers. You will also likely need a lowering spindle also. I generally do not recommend going this low.


If you want slightly lifted (~0-3″ lift)

You will want my “lifted style” brackets, their purpose is to move the top shock mount away from the UCA to create clearance because of the shock angle. 3″ is the most lift I recommend on an otherwise stock truck without having a lift kit that drops the LCA and front differential to correct the front end geometry. The droop stop on the frame will contact the UCA preventing the suspension from cycling if you go higher than this, resulting in a rough ride and inadequate travel. I do not recommend modifying this stop as it is there to protect the front end from damage.


If you want more lift or have a lift kit installed that drops the differential and/or LCA (4-7″ lift)

You will want my “lifted style” brackets and you will also need an aftermarket lift kit that drops the front diff and LCAs. Any of the typical lift kits will work as long as the UCA remains in the factory spot on the frame and is not relocated down (as is sometimes the case with “full-drop” lift kits). If you try to go too high the droop stop on the frame will contact the UCA preventing the suspension from cycling if you go higher than this, resulting in a rough ride and inadequate travel. I do not recommend modifying this stop as it is there to protect the front end from damage.


Selecting Shocks and Springs

When you order, please add this measurement in the notes section and include some details about your truck such as year, model, intended use, and any heavy accessories you have installed. When you measure (see picture), make sure the truck is on the ground with weight on the wheels and try to get it as close to the height you want. If you want to go higher, use a floor jack under the frame to put it where you want it then measure. If you are lowered then measure as it sits and tell me how much lower you want to go than it currently is.


I don’t generically list springs and shocks since every setup will be a little bit different and I want to make sure you are happy with it. If you don’t want my help that is perfectly fine, but if you do want help selecting springs and shocks please include this measurement.


I don’t want to use Viking shocks, I want to use something else (FOX, King, etc.)

That is fine as shocks and springs can generally be swapped around as long as they are the right size for the application. Viking and QA1 have a much better selection of shocks in the length range needed for dropped to slightly lifted trucks. Fox or king generally have longer shocks that will only work well on trucks lifted 4″ and higher. My brackets use a 1/2″ mounting bolt and the bearing width distance is 1-3/8″, so as long as your shocks will fit this they will work fine. I am only a dealer for Viking and do not sell the other brands.


Can I use aftermarket Upper Control Arms?

Yes, you can use whatever upper control arms you want as long as they have the same or more clearance as compared to stock. Stock control arms are fine also.