This is a kit that includes my rear shock relocation brackets and 2 Viking shocks. To make sure you get the right shocks I need you to measure from the center of the wheel/hub straight up to the bottom of the fender as the truck sits on the ground and select the height in the above menu. NOT measured from the ground. Measuring from the center of the wheel/hub takes the tire height out of it and makes figuring out what shocks you need easier.
These are weld-on brackets for the rear axle to relocate both shocks behind the axle. There are 4 pieces for the axle (cut for a 10 bolt rear), and 4 pieces for the factory tube behind the axle per kit. They are 1/4″ thick laser cut mild steel and the 3 mounting holes are 1/2″ diameter. This is designed to give maximum flexibility when relocating the shocks. Yes they can work with a sway bar, but it will be crowded (see other pictures). Can be used with a sway bar but will be tight (see pictures).
Completely vertical is not always the best way to mount shocks Being able to angle them lets you trade dampening force for total travel distance. The Viking shocks I recommend (and sell) are able to produce plenty of dampening force so you can tune your rear shock setup to do exactly what you want. The top brackets fit up high near the bed and the lower brackets fit near even with the lowest point of the differential so you have the maximum room available.
For the included hardware option, it is recommended to use a wood 2×4 to properly space and align the brackets during installation, or a 1.5″ square tubing. The hardware includes 4x grade 5 1/2″x3″ bolts, 4 washers, and 4 flanged nuts and is intended to support mounting the brackets 1.25″ to 1.5″ (recommended) apart. The long sides of the brackets should be welded flat/parallel to the frame/ground. The location along the width of the axle is not critical, however most put them in roughly the same spot as the factory mounts symmetric about the driveshaft.